Day 8: Getting Lost in Madrid. (Metaphorically and Literally...)

I woke up at Lizzy's and we tackled the task of how the hell I was going to get home. Having only been there once, I had tried to take mental notes when we drove to her place by car, but I was a bit fuzzy.

Lizzy suggested I put the address into my phone with her wifi at the flat and then trust Google maps to follow me on my way. So I did just that. But my little blue dot kept drifting off the map, and I may or may not have gotten a little lost.

The map shows the route from my flat at Catalina Suarez to Lizzy's at Pez Austral and to Sol, in the center of Madrid.

With no Spanish phone or any phone numbers to contact, I just used the map I had to the best of my abilities. Lucky for me, Spain has clearly defined street signs that CANNOT be stolen; unlike the street signs in down town Burlington that literally every college kid just NEEDS to have before they graduate as a reminder that they used to live on THAT street. Sorry, I'll continue... Anyway, it definitely took me longer than Google's ETA, but I finally made it to the address. It was at this point that I realized I had no keys.

So I waited a few minutes at the door to the complex for someone to walk out. I quickly grabbed the door and set out to find my building. It didn't take me long, as I remembered that there was a view of the pool from the balcony. But once there, I still needed a key to the building. There was a fancy little box thing where you could call the apartment you wanted (just like in the movies!!), except that I couldn't remember what letter their apartment was... I knew it was on the second floor, but as it was only 9:30am, I was reluctant to try every apartment on that floor in case I disturbed any angry Spaniards on their Saturday morning off. People don't like Americans as it is, and I was not about to perpetuate their stereotypes. So I sat by the door for 20 minutes until one kind soul walked out and I hurried up the stairs. I recognized the door mat, and knock knock knocked! and voila! Luis was there to open the door for me. Hooray!

The family left for a BBQ at Luis' parents' house in the suburbs of Madrid, and I stayed home to Skype my family.  Shortly after, Lizzy arrived (having had an easier time getting here than I did) and we set off to explore the center of Madrid.

Entrance to the Rose Garden at Retiro Park

Our first stop was the rose gardens of Retiro Park, which is very near our houses. It was gorgeous, and we sat in the sun a bit and continued on through the park. Lizzy insisted on showing me the small pond in the middle of the park where the people rent boats.

When we got there, I understood why she wanted me to see it. It wasn't that it was especially pretty or  breath taking or that there was good food or excellent statues. She wanted to see me see the people in the boats.

The best way that I can describe it is like watching a goldfish in a tank. I heard somewhere that a goldfish's memory only lasts 10 seconds. Like Ten-Second Tom, from 50 First Dates. Every 10 seconds, he would introduce himself, because he would forget where he was or who he was with. This pond was just like that.

The people were in their boats, rowing in about a 20 foot space, turning the boat around, and rowing back. Some poor souls chose to row in a circle. There had to be over a hundred boats in this dinky little pond, and there was no where to go. I might have felt pity for them had they not paid good money for the luxury of this stupid tourist scam. That being said, Lizzy and I laughed hysterically watching them aimlessly try to figure out what the hell to do.

Outside view of Mercado de San Miguel

Having had our Regina George moment, we continued through the park on our way to Sol (the center of Madrid.) We passed the Prado, or the Art Museum, and made a mental note to come back soon to see it.

The 24 hour churro place!

We hit up the churros place that Alvaro (Lizzy's dad) said we HAD to go to called San Gines.

FUN FACT #15: Started in 1894, it is open 24 hours a day. Apparently in Spain, when one gets the drunchies, one goes to San Gines. Hence why they are still running.

After churros, we got a little lost. I sustained a few blisters from the walking, but we ended up finding our way. We went to a market that Angela had pointed out on our first day and decided to go there for dinner.

Inside Mercado de San Miguel

Apparently, we weren't the only ones with this idea. We fought tooth and nail for a table, stood for 30 minutes, and then went back on the attack for a couple stools. We bought ourselves our first pitcher of Sangria in Spain and celebrated our glorious victory at Mercado de San Miguel. Unwilling to surrender our seats, we took turns getting up to get more food and drinks and enjoyed our stay there immensely.

When we finished eating, we got another drink at a restaurant outside as the temperature was perfect. We took a taxi home because we didn't want to get lost YET AGAIN! We had a lovely time.

Day 7: Mezquita

Today was a slightly sad day- We would be leaving Marbella to go back to Madrid. Although I was excited to be seeing Lizzy again, I was a little sad to leave the beach and the fun summer lifestyle we had been living the past week.

On the way home, Pilar and Luis decided that we should make a detour to show me Cordoba. We were coming from Marbella, which is very close to Malaga. So Cordoba was not too far out of the way, perhaps 45 minutes.

It was 103°F when we got there, but in truth I was happy to get out of the car for a bit and stretch my legs. Driving for 3 hours with 4 kids fighting all around you can get a bit exhausting.

In any case, we parked the car and went to explore! The first thing I saw were the remains of a castle.

FUN FACT #13: Cordoba is ancient- it was first conquered by the Romans in 206 B.C. At the time of Julius Caesar, it was the capital of the Roman Province of Spain. It was captured by the Muslim army in 711 A.D. and remained in Arab control until 1236 when King Ferdinand III took it back.

Paloma and Pilar

FUN FACT #14: What brought us to Cordoba on this particularly hot day was the Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba, otherwise known as Mezquita. Originally, it was a Visigoth Catholic church until the Muslim invaded. They tore down the church and rebuilt a gigantic mosque on the location. Following the recapture of Cordoba for Christendom, a Cathedral was built within the mosque.

As we walked to the entrance of Mezquita, we walked for a time around the actual building. A few doorways showed us the drastic differences between Muslim and Christian artwork. Soon enough, we arrived in the Orange Tree Courtyard. Originally, it had been full of palm trees, but the Christians replaced them. The courtyard was quite impressive. The main fountain supplied water for all of the orange trees. Each tree was placed 6 inches below the cobble stones with little moats carrying water to each one from the fountain. Overlooking the courtyard was a large bell tower. 

We paid the man at the gate and walked inside. 

SWEET JESUS MARY AND JOSEPH THIS PLACE WAS AWESOME.

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All me were monstrous columns and arches painted white and red. I truly cannot express how huge this place was. Had I not had the giggles of my kids to follow, I would definitely have gotten lost. All along the outer walls were alcoves of alters and paintings. A living museum- and mausoleum. Every where I walked, I treaded on some long dead dude. I couldn't really get over the irony. I mean, these guys must have been incredibly prominent and wealthy in order to be entombed here (and probably made quite the donation to save his soul no doubt). And now look at him. Being walked all over by some dumb American girl without a lick of Spanish chasing after a 2 year old. But I guess that's just how it goes. 

Here and there were small chapels that are still used today. In the center of the Mosque was the Cathedral. The entrance was unbelievably magnificent, as the stark Gothic architecture stood boldly out amongst the dark Islamic influence.  The ceilings here opened up to windows, and the center of the Cathedral was blindingly white. Needless to say, I took a billion pictures.

The carved wooden seats for the choir.

The Cathedral Dome

Once I had taken my fill, we returned to the car. On the way, some crazy lady accosted Pilar and tried to make her take a vine of rosemary. Pilar shoved her away, and politely said in Spanish, "No, you cannot read my palm, goodbye!". Meanwhile, devious little Jaime reached up and plucked the rosemary out of her hand and set off running. We left the wackadoodle behind and laughed as Jaime smelled his prize and whipped it around like a sword. That's a four year old for ya. 

When we returned to Madrid, Pilar and Luis dropped me off at Lizzy's flat. Her family was gone for the night, and we had our first sleep over! She has a trundle bed- just like the good old days. We sat up and talked about our weeks until we were too tired to go on. 

From left to right: Lucas (8), Paloma (2), Marta (6) and Jaime (4).

Day 6: Ronda

Today was the best yet!

Pilar and Luis decided to take me on a trip into the mountains to see a town called "Ronda". They told me about its rich history and the many American Greats that have lived there for brief periods, including Washington Irving, Orson Wells, and Ernest Hemingway.

FUN FACT #8: Orson Wells' ashes remain in Ronda to this day.

The drive to Ronda was a short hour or so- but on twisty and winding roads cut deep into the mountain sides. It was a wild ride, which we had to stop once as the kids got a little car sick... whoops.

As soon as we arrived, I understood the appeal.  The views of the mountains and olive fields were everywhere! Ronda itself was a mash of gorgeous white houses on either side of a large canyon with a number of bridges connecting them.

When we arrived, we took a quick tour of the local church: the Santa Maria la Mayor (The church of the Virgin Mary of the Incarnation) It was giant with huge vaulted ceilings, monstrous chandeliers, golden alters wooden sculptures, and giant wall paintings. In truth, the church was more of a museum, with all its artwork on display as well as a basement turned display area for old relics.

Following the church, we met up with los Abuelos and Pilar's brother and nephew. Abuelo explained a bit of Ronda's rich history to me as we walked to the New Bridge.

FUN FACT #9: Placed within the mountains, Ronda was in the ideal location for travelers. As a busy city throughout the years, it was also a prime hot spot for bandits. Conquered and reconquered by the Arabs throughout the centuries, it was taken back as a Christian city in 1485, but many Muslims continued to live there. After the Spanish Inquisition, many Muslims fleeing central Spain took refuge in Ronda, as it was on their way to the coast and possibly back to North Africa. In 1566, after a Muslim rebellion, Phillip II ordered the murder of all Arabs in the area, and that was the end of that.


We continued towards the New Bridge of Ronda.
FUN FACT #10: There are currently three bridges in Ronda; The Roman Bridge, The Old/Arab Bridge, and The New Bridge. Aptly named, it gives us a little perspective on when exactly these bridges were built. Each bridge is at a higher level of the canyon, called El Tajo.  What truly blew my mind to find out, as Abuelo told me while taking pictures off the bridge, is that although the "New Bridge" may appear to be recently built, it was actually constructed in 1751... Which when I come to think about it, is 25 years before the signing of the Declaration of Independence. It is truly humbling when I think about how young our country is, and yet how many great things we have accomplished in such a short time.


We continued on to a restaurant outside of the bull fighting arena that Luis insisted we go to. All of the men of the family say that whenever they are in Ronda, they HAVE to eat the local delicacy. In this case, it was the "Tail of the Bull." And no, I'm not bull shitting you. (pun intended.)

Truthfully, it was quite good! Once I got over eating around the tail bones, it really wasn't that bad! It kind of tasted like pulled pork. Really though, I actually enjoyed it.

Following the lunch, we went to the Plaza de toros de Ronda!

FUN FACT #11: Built in 1784, this is the oldest bullfighting ring in Spain!

It was pretty fun running around the arena with the kids. Underneath the bleachers was a museum dedicated to the history of bull fighting. The Romero family of Ronda supplied three generations of toreros here, and their history remains at this museum. Included next to the museum is a small chapel, which is still used for the matadors and their families to pray for themselves before the bull fights.

FUN FACT #12: The most famous Pedro Romero, fought 5,600 bulls without being injured before retiring in 1799. When he was 80, he fought and killed multiple bulls in a bull fighting ring in Madrid. Way to go out with style...

Standing inside the bridge arch

Anyways, after the Plaza del Toros, lost Abuelos, Uncle Feliz, Cousin Feliz, and our Lucas left to go back to Marbella. Myself, Pilar, Luis, Paloma, Marta, and Jaime stayed to see a few more sights. We paid to go down into the inside of the New Bridge which was pretty cool. When we returned to the top of the bridge, we walked towards a restaurant. The kids were tired, so Luis showed me to a path that would lead me underneath the bridge and into the canyon.

The New Bridge

"We will stay here for ice cream with the kids. Go explore!! Come back in about an hour?"

He didn't have to tell me twice.

So off I went to hike down El Tajo (the canyon of Ronda) to see the New Bridge and its waterfalls up close and personal.

well thats comforting...

It was 101°F, but I didn't mind a bit. I walked down the steep sandy track for about 10 minutes and continued under the bridge. In honesty, pictures have a hard time displaying how truly enormous this bridge is. No wonder it took them the better part of 40 years to build it.

The track I walked on underneath the New Bridge

The path I was on was not exactly wide- probably only 2 feet or so, with nothing but the rocks and a deeper canyon to catch my fall. I passed by an iron ladder that would lead me on top of a huge boulder. And, classic Dee, I just HAD to go up.

Keep in mind, I had my camera around my neck, my useless American phone which would never work here, and no companions with me. But I felt like I should try anyway. So I climbed up the ladder, only to find that at the top, I had to take hold of grass and use the foot holds carved out of the rock to pull me another 10 feet up the boulder face. Seeing as I was already a solid 20 feet above the ground, with nothing but a 2 foot wide track and a canyon below to catch me, I considered my options. Already hindered by my chunky camera, I looked at my shoes.

Although highly fashionable, my $13 TJMaxx sandals my Mom bought me were not exactly the apparel I would have had in mind for a climb such as this. With the full knowledge of the lack of tread, my inner Muriel (my grandmother) told me I should probably climb back down. In actuality, Grandma probably wouldn't have condoned me even attempting to climb up there in the first place, but I digress.

After I returned to the bottom, I walked back under the bridge to take some more pictures. I came across a very lovely couple taking pictures of each other in front of the bridge. Curious about whether or not they spoke English, I figured I could pantomime well enough to tell them I would be happy to take their picture for them. I took the chance, and they happened to be fluent in English! They were on vacation in Andalusia, originally hailing from Hungary. They even had the same camera as me, so it was easy as we took pictures of each other on our way down the mountain.

The view as I walked down below the bridge. I took this picture with my phone.

At one point, we came across a band of women taking photos of themselves. I kid you not, it was one of the most hilarious scenes ever. Three women took photos- one on a phone, one on an iPad, and one with a camera while a fourth held the purses. The woman posed with her hat on, with it off, scarf on, scarf off, looking at the camera, looking away... etc. After she finished, the Hungarians and I attempted to move to the ledge for our turn. BUT NO NO NO... Each single woman needed to have her turn. I almost cried from the absurdity of it all.

The aforementioned fashion show...

View from under the bridge

The Hungarian man looked at me and said, "I hate to break up the fashion show, but I've had enough of this crap," and grabbed his girlfriend and stepped straight into the picture. The women scattered like pigeons and we got our photos.


When we had finished, I said goodbye and wished them well as I trudged back up the hill. I met up with Pilar and Luis and the kids and we set off for home. I took a few pictures of the mountains on the way while the kids slept, and we were quickly back in Marbella as the sun set. It was a magnificent day.