Back in the 1950's, my Grandfather was drafted for the war in Korea. Fortunately for him, he was accepted into the U.S. Army band and was sent to Austria. So my Grandmother, the adventurous young lady she was, decided to go with him. They lived in Salzburg, Austria (yes, that's where the Sound of Music take place) for a little over a year.
Of course, while they were there, they were able to take time away from the base and see a bit of Europe. To this day, my Grandma says that their excursion to Paris was a truly magical trip. And as any of my cousins can tell you, they like to tell one story in particular of their stay there.
Their first night in Paris, my Grandparents accidentally booked a hotel that far exceeded their budget. When they checked in, my Grandpa was surprised when the front desk clerk gave him the key. It was attached to this giant ostentatious metal star that weighed about 2 pounds with the name and address of the hotel on it.
"Why do you have this giant star attached to the key? It's so heavy and a paint to carry around," said Charley.
"Because people lose their keys all the time sir, this makes sure people remember to return it. But you would be surprised, many people forget to return it all the time," replied the desk clerk.
My Grandparents laughed, "What idiot would forget to return this thing? It's HUGE!"
They spent one night in that hotel before finding another a few blocks away for half the price. And sure enough, when they returned to Austria, my Grandpa found the giant ostentatious metal star in his pocket. That idiot forgot to return it.
So to this day, that metal star key resides on the workbench of my Grandparents' house. Seeing as I was about to go to Paris, I asked my Charley and Muriel for the name and the address of the hotel, just to see what the place looked like for myself!
Cut back to present day...
Lizzy and I had a few more things on the list in addition to Hotel Edouard VII, so we hit those first.
#1. The Paris Catacombs
I read Edgar Allen Poe's "Cask of the Amontillado" in 8th grade, and following being totally creeped out by it, I became fascinated by the idea of the catacombs. There are many in Europe- most in Italy, which was where Poe's story was based. But I had heard about the Paris Catacombs and I convinced Lizzy to try to go see it.
Unfortunately for us, the line was about 3-4 hours long. And although our 20 questions game is still fun now, we were unwilling to test it at the time for such a long period. Whatever, maybe we'll see them in Italy! Annoyed, we got back on the metro and set off for the Louvre.
#2. The Louvre
Surprisingly, this line was not very long. So we hopped on and played our game- no longer with Harry Potter characters. (Not because we were tired of it, but because we had used every character in the book by then...) Lizzy picked a rather difficult one for me- Santa Claus. Let me tell ya folks, that one ain't easy. But then I did Big Foot for her, so we were even.
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From inside the Pyramid |
FUN FACT #27: Did you know that you enter the Louvre THROUGH the glass pyramid?? Because I definitely didn't.
So we entered the pyramid- which is actually way cooler in real life than you would think- went through security, and then down, down, down the escalators into the main entryway of the museum. Here, there are the ticket counters, bookstore, gift shop, and cafe.
First off, I must say, that I regret the time we spent in the Louvre. And not because we didn't enjoy it- but because we did not budget our time wisely enough as well as we did not do enough research on what we really wanted to see.
We started off in the Sully building. Immediately, we were greeted by the old foundations of the Louvre that are kept there for display.
FUN FACT #28: The Louvre was originally a fortress to protect Paris from Northern invaders. In 1190, King Phillippe Auguste began the construction of the fort. In 1364, Charles V started the Louvre's transformation from a fortress to a royal palace. Over the years, the project was abandoned, taken up, abandoned, and taken up once again, most prominently by Francis I in 1546. Francis I actually gathered most of the Louvre's main acquisitions including the Mona Lisa. It was he who was close friends with Da Vinci and received the painting upon his death. Many years later, it was finally used as a royal residence by Louis XVIII in 1624. His son, Louis XIV, The Sun King, continued the financial support of the building, but moved to the Palace of Versailles in 1674. Louis XIV, XV, and XVI all worked to keep the palace running and began converting it into a museum. After the French Revolution, the government turned the palace into a full time museum which opened its doors to the public in 1793.
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How we do museums... |
I won't bore you with our aimless wanderings of the Louvre except for a few highlights. Our favorite parts were...
Napoleon III's apartments. Much like Versailles in grandeur, this place was far less crowded. It was pretty cool to walk around in and enjoy the ridiculousness of the rooms.
FUN FACT #29: For a brief period, the Louvre changed its name to "Musee Napoleon". Why, you ask? Because Napoleon Bonaparte was a pompous jackass.
The marble statues section was probably what we spent most of our time in. They were unbelievably fun to look at. My favorite part was when I found a rather creepy head sculpture of a man. I remarked to Lizzy, and we agreed that his smile brought the word "pedophile" to our lips. Upon further inspection, the subject of the sculpture turned out to be Voltaire.... Awkward....
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Old creep... I mean, Voltaire... |
Stupidly, we did not really plan out our visit, and after walking around the Egyption and Greek Antiquities for was seemed like forever and then getting lost in the paintings sections, we grew exhausted and went on the look out for Mona. It took us a while, but we found her, surrounded by a solid 200 people trying to take selfies.
A couple weeks after we were there, Beyonce and Jay-Z went to Paris.
They looked to cute together with their picture in front of the Mona Lisa. Adorable even. And I will bet BIG money that they were able to reserve the room for 15 minutes for the two of them to take their adorable picture with Mona without having to be surrounded by hundreds of people. Either that or people just got to their knees and bowed down as they walked by in order to allow them to take this picture unhindered.
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The Mona Lisa in all her glory |
For us mere mortals, we had to throw some 'bows here and there to get to the railing surrounding Mona, which is a solid 10 feet away from the actual painting which is still surrounded by 2 inch thick bullet proof glass. (Side note- how did Beyonce and Jay-Z get behind the railing? It must be good to be the Queen B.) So we took our pictures briefly and got the hell outta there. Beautiful painting, but a pain to see.
Following Mona, we booked it out of there. We took our touristy photos in front of the Louvre and hit the road. Next on the list...
#3. Sacre-Coeur
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Inside Sacre-Coeur |
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Sunset Sitting |
Now originally, this cathedral had not been on our must-sees of Paris. But Pilar had told me how beautiful it was, and its prominence in both views from atop Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower did make it look like a cool place to see. Tired of walking, we took a cab to the cathedral, and man, was it worth the visit.
FUN FACT #30: Sacre-Coeur did not begin construction until 1875, which makes this cathedral rather new. What is interested though is that the hill on which it was built (which is the highest point in the city) is called Montmatre, or "Mount of Martyrs", originally to commemorate St. Denis. This hill has been a sacred spot since pagan times. It was originally called "Mons Martis" meaning "Mount of Mars" because the Romans built a temple to Mars and Mercury. Classic Christianity- taking pagan things and making them their own.
So Sacre-Coeur rests on this hill top over looking Paris- and boy does it have an amazing view! People were sitting on the steps leading up to the Cathedral looking down on the city and enjoying the sunset. Ironically, there were men selling beer to people as they sat and enjoyed the evening. We took a quick tour about the inside of the church. Holy Guacamole, this place was so cool! The giant dome was adorned with a huge mosaic of Jesus who looked not only down upon the people in the church but also seemingly out the door to overlook Paris itself. It was an unbelievable place, and we enjoyed taking pictures and becoming friends with a nice Australian couple who
took our picture for us.
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Us on the steps of Sacre-Coeur |
#4. Moulin Rouge
Moulin Rouge is located at the bottom of Montmatre, so we walked down the giant staircase that led up to Sacre-Coeur down into the 18th arrondisement.
FUN FACT #31: Moulin Rouge opened its doors in 1889 and was the originator of the dance known as the French "can-can".
Tickets to this place are like a million dollars and you need to book them FAR in advance, so we didn't actually go inside. But we got a pic of the famous windmill and continued on our way.
#5. Duck
We kept walking and at this point, it was getting kind of late. We
found a random and beautiful cathedral (only in Paris, am I right?) and right next to it a rather classy restaurant and bar. We knew that while we were there, we had to eat some classic French cuisine. I checked out the menu, whose prices were not unreasonable, and Lizzy and I went inside. We had roasted ruck with garlic potatoes and a honey vinaigrette salad. My mind was blown. Then we proceeded to get chocolate crepes, because I mean, we're in Paris, and I almost cried by how good they were.
Our waiter drew pictures of us on his notepad and gave them to us. Like, is this real life?
#6. Hotel Edouard VII
We found the cathedral we were next to on the map and realized how close we were to the hotel that my grandparents stayed at! We hopped in a cab for about 5 minutes and BOOM we were there!! Rather different now I expect than when my grandparents graced this hotel's halls, I can see why they could only afford to stay a night. This place is SWANKY. But I got my picture at the front door and asked for a business card from them and we were back on the metro to get back to Aloha Hostel.
We hit the hay and woke up early the next day to catch out flight back to Madrid. It was a truly magical weekend, but we were glad to be back in our own beds and back with the kiddos.